PL259 / SO239 Connectors

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PL259 / SO239 Connectors

Postby Dieselguzzler » Thu Apr 27, 2017 10:15 pm

Hi all,

A few varying methods on YouTube, any tips or instructions for installing these, never done it before.

Do the 259's & 239's just screw together
Equipment: UBC125XLT // WATSON W-881
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Re: PL259 / SO239 Connectors

Postby G4RMT » Fri Apr 28, 2017 7:08 am

PL259 is the male connector that goes into the SO239 female, normally a chassis connector or found as a back to back 'barrel' to extend a cable.

The important thing to remember is that there are lots of different types, all slightly different to put on!

Key things are avoiding shorts because in most cases the braid ends up being screwed or pushed into the metal part and it's not uncommon for stray strands to short out. Many designs have a small hole that allows you to see the braid when it is inside and then you solder this to the metalwork. You need a soldering iron at least 35w, 25w needs a greater amount of skill because the big connector sucks the heat up. The centre conductor just gets soldered quickly at the tip, and the solder applied flows back. Too much heat and the insulator melts and falls out. Some designs do not have the hole for the braid to be soldered, and the entry has a thread that tapers, so when you twist the body omit squashes the braid. These need good amounts of pvc and self amalgamating tape to prevent them coming loose over the years?

You WILL forget to put the twisting part of the connector on the cable first at some point. We all do it. Lovely joint, then you see the final part sitting on the bench, and have to start all over again. Quite normal!

The cheaper ones have a nasty plating, which makes soldering less easy. The secret is preparation, cutting the dialectic and screen back to the right lengths so shorts are less likely. Too much heat melts things and not enough or too big a tip causes other snags. So much is down to how good you are with the iron.
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Re: PL259 / SO239 Connectors

Postby m0lsx » Fri Apr 28, 2017 10:02 am

G4RMT wrote: The cheaper ones have a nasty plating, which makes soldering less easy. The secret is preparation, cutting the dialectic and screen back to the right lengths so shorts are less likely. Too much heat melts things and not enough or too big a tip causes other snags. So much is down to how good you are with the iron.


I would also add that cheaper has nothing sometimes to do with the cost to you. Maplins being a good example of cheap connectors which are not cheap.
Also cheap connectors tend to be more easily effected by the heat. So you will end up with the male part leaning at a strange angle more often.
Always ALWAYS check your coax for continuity before you install it. It is much easier to resolve issues then, especially if getting it up & then back down involves climbing up to the chimney.
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